Sub test()
    Dim oPT_F As PivotField, oPT As PivotTable
    Dim x
    
    Set oPT = ActiveSheet.PivotTables("ÑâîäíàÿÒàáëèöà1")

    For Each x In Array(oPT.PageFields)
        If Not x Is Nothing Then
            For Each oPT_F In x
            MsgBox (oPT_F.Orientation & " -- " & oPT_F.Caption)
            Next
        End If
    Next x
End Sub