.table-row-cell:selected {  
    -fx-font-weight: bold;
}

if (item.contains("@"))

package ru;

import javafx.application.Application;
import javafx.beans.property.SimpleStringProperty;
import javafx.collections.FXCollections;
import javafx.collections.ObservableList;
import javafx.event.Event;
import javafx.event.EventHandler;
import javafx.scene.Scene;
import javafx.scene.control.TableCell;
import javafx.scene.control.TableColumn;
import javafx.scene.control.TablePosition;
import javafx.scene.control.TableView;
import javafx.scene.control.cell.PropertyValueFactory;
import javafx.scene.input.MouseEvent;
import javafx.scene.layout.Priority;
import javafx.scene.layout.VBox;
import javafx.scene.text.Font;
import javafx.scene.text.FontWeight;
import javafx.stage.Stage;
import javafx.util.Callback;

public class TableCellTextColorExample extends Application {
  
  public static void main(String[] args) {
      Application.launch(args);
  }  

  @Override
  public void start(Stage stage) throws Exception {
    VBox vbox = new VBox();
    Scene scene = new Scene(vbox, 200, 200);
    stage.setTitle("Table View");
    stage.setWidth(400);
    stage.setHeight(500);


    TableView<TableData> myTable = new TableView<TableData>();
    ObservableList<TableData> myTableData =
      FXCollections.observableArrayList(new TableData("data", "data", "data"), new TableData("data", "data", "data"),
                                        new TableData("Name the song", "867-5309", "SomeEmail@gmail.com"));

    TableColumn firstColumn = new TableColumn("First Column");
    firstColumn.setCellValueFactory(new PropertyValueFactory<TableData, String>("one"));

    TableColumn secondColumn = new TableColumn("Second Column");
    secondColumn.setCellValueFactory(new PropertyValueFactory<TableData, String>("two"));

    TableColumn thirdColumn = new TableColumn("Third Column");
    thirdColumn.setCellValueFactory(new PropertyValueFactory<TableData, String>("three"));
    
    thirdColumn.setCellFactory(new Callback<TableColumn, TableCell>() {
      
      public TableCell call(TableColumn param) {
        
        return new TableCell<TableData, String>() {
          
          @Override
          public void updateItem(String item, boolean empty) {
            super.updateItem(item, empty);
            if (!isEmpty()) {
              setText(item); 
              if (item.contains("@")){                
                this.setFont(Font.font(this.getFont().getName(), FontWeight.BOLD, this.getFont().getSize()));//NORMAL
              }                                            
            }
          }
        };
      }
    });
    
    myTable.setEditable(true);
    myTable.setOnMousePressed(new EventHandler<MouseEvent>(){
      @Override
      public void handle(MouseEvent event){
        //Хочу тут делать setFont для TableColumn всей строки        
      }
    });
    myTable.setItems(myTableData);
    myTable.getColumns().addAll(firstColumn, secondColumn, thirdColumn);

    vbox.getChildren().addAll(myTable);
    VBox.setVgrow(myTable, Priority.ALWAYS);

    stage.setScene(scene);
    stage.show();
  }
  
  public class TableData {
    SimpleStringProperty one, two, three;

    public TableData(String one, String two, String three) {
      this.one = new SimpleStringProperty(one);
      this.two = new SimpleStringProperty(two);
      this.three = new SimpleStringProperty(three);
    }

    public String getOne() {
      return one.get();
    }

    public void setOne(String one) {
      this.one.set(one);
    }

    public String getThree() {
      return three.get();
    }

    public void setThree(String three) {
      this.three.set(three);
    }

    public String getTwo() {
      return two.get();
    }

    public void setTwo(String two) {
      this.two.set(two);
    }
  }  
}

    myTable.getSelectionModel().selectedItemProperty().addListener(new ChangeListener<TableData>(){
      @Override
      public void changed(ObservableValue<? extends TableCellTextColorExample.TableData> observableValue,
                          TableCellTextColorExample.TableData tableData,
                          TableCellTextColorExample.TableData tableData2) {        
        
        if(tableData2.getFontName().get()=="NORMAL"){
          tableData2.setFontName("BOLD");          
        }
        else{  
          tableData2.setFontName("NORMAL");          
        }        
      }
    });

    thirdColumn.setCellFactory(new Callback<TableColumn, TableCell>() {
      
      public TableCell call(TableColumn param) {
        
        return new TableCell<TableData, String>() {          

          @Override
          public void updateItem(String item, boolean empty) {
            super.updateItem(item, empty);
            if (!isEmpty()) {
              setText(item);
              if (myTable.getSelectionModel().selectedItemProperty().isNotNull().get()) {                
                if(myTable.getSelectionModel().selectedItemProperty().getValue().getFontName().get()=="NORMAL"){
                  this.setFont(Font.font(this.getFont().getName(), FontWeight.NORMAL, this.getFont().getSize()));
                }
                else{
                  this.setFont(Font.font(this.getFont().getName(), FontWeight.BOLD, this.getFont().getSize()));
                }
              }         
            }
          }
        };
      }
    });